Now we got the different types of switch systems covered, it's time to dive into what I have and how I ran them. I will explain everything on a layered format, so it is easier to understand!

The Foundation - Major Components 

 

NHOverland Switch-Pros Mount

Inside the engine bay to the left of radiator is where the "brain" of Switch-Pros system is located. I mounted it there using the Switch-Pros mount from NHOverland. 

You can find it here

I've elected to use a ring terminal bus bar as well, even though it is NOT recommended by Switch-Pros. My reason is this: as I am adding and moving my aux lights and other components, I am constantly moving my electrical accessories through different switch systems. With ring terminal bus bar, I don't have to keep on cutting and splicing every time I need to move. 

Also please excuse the not-so-aesthetically wires. I cut these to length when I installed it on the 4Runner thinking I'd never move it to a different vehicle back in 2017, so I had to extend the harness wires for my Ram application.  

Feeding through the firewall:

Feeding through the firewall was the more challenging part. Given that I already know I am running other accessories in the cab NOT controlled by Switch-Pro, I ran a few items through the firewall at the same time:

• Switch-Pros controller harness
• To control the Switch-Pros, obviously
• Power and Ground
• Hotwired to the battery with a Blue Sea Circuit Breaker next to the battery and body grounded in the engine bay
• Wired to a Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground
• Will be used to power mobile HAM radio, fridge, and anything else I want to be powered when the truck is off. 
• HAM Radio antenna cable 
• To send and receive HAM signal, obviously.

To fee the wires and cable through, I used a utility knife to poke a hole through the grommet on the firewall and jammed the power and ground harness through first. With enough slack on both ends, I taped the Switch-Pros harness onto the power and ground and pulled from cab side. Once the harness is through, I removed the tape and repeat the process for HAM antenna but in reverse order. 

Once everything is installed and secured, I applied some silicone on the grommet to seal the hole I made for waterproofing. 

Switch-Pros control panel install:

I elected to install the Switch-Pro control panel in the floor console where the RAM wireless charger is located (for those who optioned it). I chose that spot because I can use the panel comfortably without leaning forward or change my seating position while driving. 

To install the control panel, I removed the floor console (which is surprisingly easy, just a few 10mm bolts here and there), routed the cable, drilled holes on the Ram phone holder area, install, and done. 

Because of the rubber material, drilling hole was not easy. To mark where I need to drill, I painted the studs of the control panel with paint marker and pressed it on to the rubber phone holder area to transfer the marking. Once the 4 studs are marked, I used a small bit to drill pilot holes and worked my way up, I stopped once I can jam the studs through. Then, I eyeballed where the harness needs to pass through, and drilled an 3/4" hole to feed the connecter through. Once it is through, I jam the studs through, connect the harness, and zip tie everything to existing cables. If your stud holes are small enough, you don't need to use the supplied nylon nuts to hold the panel in place. I've tested it through going through shaky sections on the trail and so far they hold just fine. 

Once cable management is complete, reinstall the floor console

Cab side constant hot accessories:

 

As previously mentioned, I am running powered accessories inside the cab. To accomplish that, instead of running individual power and grounds for each item through the firewall, I used a grounded fuse block that acts as a distribution panel. This is located under the driver side rear seat, and is completely covered when the bench seat is down.

I created a mount using scrap wood from other projects that I had, and used blue paint since I ran out of black paint. The mount is sandwiched between the seat mount, and is quite secure. I then used Velcro tape to mount the HAM radio to the wooden mount, and used self-tapping screws to secure the fuse block. I then hid all the wires under the all-weather floormat and under the driver seat, since I don't feel like ripping the carpet out for this. I will properly hide these under the carpet when I tackle sound deadening project, whenever that takes place. 

Lights, MOAR LIGHTS!

If you read my 4Runner post, you'd know that I have quite a lot of lights. With the Rebel, things will be a little bit different: since I don't lead group runs at all, long distance through is not going to be a must for me. So no need for a designated spot pattern light. 

*To learn more about different patterns and what they do, refer to Baja Designs' Lighting Zone page for explanation. 

As of right now, my Switch-Pros control the major lights I have.

Baja Designs LP6 + Dark-Dunes Bumper Mount

These are mounted on the bumper using Dark-Dune's Bumper Light Mount.

These bumper mounts pack quality and affordable price tag, and are easy to install. Removal of bumper is required, but with another pair of hands the whole process can be done in under an hour. For my application, I added some foam inserts under the bracket to help with vibration, but it does still vibrate when going through choppy sections. 

For wiring the LP6s, I hooked up the power supply to the battery and used their Upfitter Lock-Out Harness to connect to the Switch-Pro's low output slots for triggers.

Baja Designs Squadron Sport + SDHQ Ditch Light Mount + Rago Fabrication HAM Antenna Mount

For my ditch lights, I reused the Squadron Sports I removed from my 4Runner paired with SDHQ's A-Pillar Light Mount. 

SDHQ make some sturdy light brackets that can go through any terrain. These are hood mounted, but still as sturdy as they come. I wished they came fender mounted like they designed for 3rd Gen Cummins, but even hood mounted is sturdy enough to not vibrate when my HAM antenna is whipping left and right. For these lights, I just connect them to the Switch-Pros and body grounded it. 

For HAM antenna mount, I reused the Rago Fabrication HAM Antenna Mount. These worked great on the 4Runner, and continue to work great on the Ram. 

Baja Designs S2 Sport + Chassis Unlimited Bed Rack

Chase lights are rear facing bright lights. These are especially important for dusty or poor visibility environments, since these lights will be the only thing visible for vehicles behind you. Your taillights are useless in these situations. In addition, chase lights should be mounted as rearward and high as possible, so that they will not be blocked by the truck bed or terrain. 

For my chase lights, I reused the S2 Sports I removed from my 4Runner and directly bolted on to my Chassis Unlimited Thorex Bed Rack. I will review more of that in the future post, so stay tuned. 

I had to extend the wires for these, as they are not long enough to follow the entire truck length. I wired these to one of the low output slots of the Switch-Pros, and enabled burst-strobe and dimming functions. I want these to have the option to burst-strobe, so vehicle behind me will pay more attention to them. In addition, I enabled dimming as well, so I can dim these when it gets dark to avoid blinding the vehicle behind me. 

A quick word: chase lights are more important than frontal lights. I've seen gnarly rear-ending accidents caused by poor visibility, and those could be easily avoided with a pair of quality chase lights. I turn away people without chase lights in my group runs; if only 1 person doesn't have chase lights then he's going to the back. In addition, I believe everyone who runs chase lights need to have dimmers, for obvious reasons. This is where Switch-Pros are worth the money. 

Conclusion

Other than rock lights, these are basically my entire set up of my vehicular side of electrical work. I am waiting on my rock sliders to arrive before I install the rock lights, since I need to make sure my pre-selected install points do not interfere with the sliders' mounting. 

To be honest, electrical system for vehicular side on the Ram is one of the easiest I've done. Knowledge of electrical system aside, the Ram's spacious construction allows me to run wires easily unlike Toyotas.

I went with Baja Designs because of their reputation and my personal experience. Baja Designs is the go-to for race applications, and my own Baja Design products last through years of abuse. Again, buy once cry once. Buy quality products and they will last. Buy quality products and you only need to pay me once to install them. Or buy cheap products and I keep charging you to troubleshoot and replace failed items.

Eventually you'll pay more to me and I can buy that set of LP9s I've been eyeing.